Review: Savute Elephant Lodge, a Belmond Safari (Botswana)

Luxury Travel Expert

1 year ago

Wednesday newsletters always feature a hotel or flight review.

Last summer, I enjoyed one of my best holidays ever, an ultra-luxe safari in Botswana. You can read my trip reports here:

Review: Lufthansa Boeing 747 Business Class (Frankfurt to Johannesburg)
Review: Wilderness Jao Camp, Okavango Delta
Review: Wilderness Vumbura Plains, Okavango Delta
Review: Wilderness DumaTau, Linyanti Wildlife Reserve
Review: Eagle Island Lodge, a Belmond Safari, Okavango Delta
Review: Savute Elephant Lodge, a Belmond Safari, Chobe National Park (today)
Review: Lufthansa Boeing 747 First Class (Johannesburg to Frankfurt)

Today: Review of Eagle Island Lodge, a Belmond Safari (Okavango Delta, Botswana)

Hotel website: Savute Elephant Lodge, a Belmond Safari
Location: Google maps
Tip: get complimentary VIP perks when booking via Virtuoso

Through Botswana’s Chobe National Park flows a mysterious channel – a ghost river that appears intermittently, regardless of rainfall, and whose water can change direction. On its banks, here in the elephant capital of the world, lies Belmond Savute Elephant Lodge. The heart of the most biologically diverse game reserve in Botswana, the Savute is where the BBC and National Geographic have captured some of their best wildlife documentary footage and where guests can watch the live wildlife show every day and night. Guests of the lodge can go out on safari every morning and afternoon, but one of the most memorable experiences comes from simply sitting on the private deck of their tented room as a parade of elephants walks by, mere metres away. The 12 tented rooms are shaded by traditional thatched roofs and built on raised wooden platforms for better viewing over the Savute.

Have you ever stayed at Savute Elephant Lodge, a Belmond Safari? If so, what was your experience? Leave a comment.

Savute Elephant Lodge, a Belmond Safari features in my top 10 list of the best safari lodges in Botswana.

In this review (more info and photos below my YouTube video):

Pros & things I like
Cons & things to know
My verdict
Tips for future guests & save money
Best time to visit
How to get there
Photos

PROS & THINGS I LIKE

Savute Elephant Lodge is the most luxurious lodge within Botswana’s Chobe National Park. Covering almost 11,000 sq km (6,836 sq miles), Chobe was Botswana’s first National Park and remains one of its best, boasting the biggest concentration of wildlife in Africa. An oasis in a dry, at times desolate region, the National Park’s Chobe River offers an irreplaceable lifeline to the reserve’s wildlife. In the mid- to late-afternoon, elephants comes down to the Chobe River’s banks, some small in number and others counting in the hundreds. Large herds of buffalo are found along the Chobe riverfront and grazing on the islands, crossing from one to the other or back to the mainland. Special game sightings include the indigenous and endangered puku antelope that can only be seen along the Chobe River banks. Chobe National Park is Botswana’s most accessible park to self-drive around.

The Chobe Game Reserve was officially created in 1960 and became a national park in 1967. In 1975, Botswana’s government decided to limit human access to the reserve, apart from the area around Belmond Savute Elephant Lodge. At the time, two adjacent camps operated at Savute, one run by the legendary hunter Harry Selby, who was immortalised in the Robert Ruark book Horn of the Hunter. Selby eventually moved on and the twin camps were taken over and merged by Gametrackers. In 1993 Belmond (previously Orient-Express Hotels) acquired Gametrackers and in 2014 the camp was renamed Belmond Savute Elephant Lodge, to emphasize that the property is located at the heart of what is known as the “Elephant Kingdom of Africa” (due to the presence of massive herds of elephants in the area; more on that below).

Belmond Savute Elephant Lodge is located at the heart of Chobe National Park on the banks of the Savute River, a ghost river that appears intermittently, regardless of rainfall, and whose water can change direction. Despite theories about the shifting of tectonic plates affecting the presence of water, no one knows when the Savute Channel will be an abundant source of water or when it will go dry. When David Livingstone explored the area in 1851 he described it as a marsh: since then the Channel has alternated between flowing strongly and then drying up. The Savute Channel near the the lodge continues to come and go, but with a water hole directly in front of the property animal lovers are able to see wildlife big and small at all times. The Savute area is where the BBC and National Geographic have captured some of their best wildlife documentary footage.

At the heart of Belmond Savute Elephant Lodge is a dining area, a bar, a lounge and a TV room under a large canvas roof with open sides for waterhole viewing. A shop next to the reception area supports local artisans by selling mostly locally made gifts and souvenirs, and a small reference library offers books and videos. In front of the main lodge is a 20 m (65 ft) pool, a popular place to relax in between the morning and evening safari drive. One floor below the pool deck is a hide from where the animals visiting the nearby water hole – mainly elephants and bufalos – can be observed at close range. The communal area also features a fire-pit overlooking the water hole as well as a traditional Boma meeting space, which provides an atmospheric setting for a barbecue dinner and music performance by locals.

Belmond Savute Elephant Lodge features 12 tented rooms, which are shaded by traditional thatched roofs and built on raised wooden platforms for better viewing over the Savute. Each one has a large private deck with day beds along with a table and chairs where private dinners can be served. The interiors include polished wooden floorboards, a four poster bed with mosquito netting, comfortable chairs and a writing desk, a bathroom with both indoor and outdoor showers, and a dressing room with robes and slippers. To cool down guests can either opt for the large ceiling fan or air conditioning, and there is also a radiator for those nights when temperatures drop below freezing. The fully stocked mini bar in each room is stocked with complimentary beverages.

Whereas some African nations are seeing elephant populations decline, in Botswana their numbers are on the rise and it is now believed around 200,000 elephants can be found in the country. At Belmond Savute Elephant Lodge guests can go out on a safari drive every morning and afternoon to see these majestic animals, but one of the most memorable experiences comes from simply sitting on the private deck of their tented room as a parade of elephants walks by, mere meters away, to visit the permanent water hole in front of the lodge (the water hole is illuminated at night, so guests can continue to observe the elephants passing by). Along with the peaceful pachyderms, guests can also expect encounters with leopards, lions, cheetahs, zebra, giraffes, wild dogs, hyenas and more, and can watch as a dust storm on the horizon reveals itself to be a herd of buffalo.

Stays at Belmond Savute Elephant Lodge include full board with breakfast, lunch and dinner along with drinks including alcohol (some premium brands and imported champagnes come at an additional cost). Most meals are served in the dining room at the main pavilion, although the hotel staff can also set up a romantic table on the private deck of the room for a more private dining experience. Menus change seasonally and offer a mix of light and healthy options. Local flavors and ingredients such as beef seswaa, samps (dried corn), and papa (maize meal porridge) are served alongside more familiar dishes. On selected nights, the lodge also offers barbeque dinners in the boma, where staff entertains the guests with stories about Botswana’s rich history. Sundowner drinks are also offered during the afternoon safaris.

Savute Elephant Lodge belongs to the portfolio of the Belmond Hotel Group fomerly known as Orient Express until its rebranding in 2014. Belmond is a hotel and leisure company that manages a ultraluxe collection of 49 iconic hotels, trains and river cruises in 24 countries, bringing together some of the world’s most sensational journeys and destinations. It ranks among the most exclusive hotel brands in the world. With Belmond, you can stay in timeless hotels in Venice, Rio and St. Petersburg, embrace the spirit of adventure at Machu Picchu or Angkor Wat, glide along the rails through the Swiss Alps, soar across the Andes, or explore the mystifying rivers of Myanmar. In 2018, Belmond was acquired by LVMH (‘Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy’), the owner of brands like Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton and Fendi.

For the full Botswana nature experience, Belmond Savute Elephant Lodge can be combined with stays at Belmond’s other luxury Botswana lodge: Eagle Island Lodge, a Belmond Safari in the Okavango Delta. Located on a private island surrounded by the Okavango Delta’s epic landscapes, Belmond Eagle Island Lodge is considered one of the ultimate luxury safari lodges in Botswana. Here, guests can silently glide past hippos in canoe-like mekoros, take in the vastness of the Delta and see elephants, giraffes and zebras from above in a helicopter, go on a horse riding or motorboat safari, visit local villagers, or simply relax in the beauty of the lodge. Each of the 12 spacious and light-filled deluxe tented rooms has its own plunge pool and deck, positioned in such a way that when guests retire to their rooms they are afforded total privacy and can see no signs of human life – only Botswana’s unique animals and birds.. Belmond Eagle Island Lodge is a 50 min bush flight from Belmond Savute Elephant Lodge.

CONS & THINGS TO KNOW

Although food at the lodge is decent, it does not really feel like gourmet dining, and it’s not as sophisticated as the food that is served at some of Africa’s other top safari camps (including its sister property Belmond Eagle Island Lodge). In addition, the food portions are quite small; during my stay, I often had to ask for some extra portions (which felt a bit uncomfortable). IMHO, for the amount of money one pays, and especially for a Belmond property, the food quality and presentation could be better and more refined.

Chobe National Park is an incredible safari destination thanks to its abundant wildlife, including four of the Big Five and its impressive elephant population. As a result, the national park is a popular and busy destination for both guided and self-drive safaris. When a good sighting (e.g. pride of lions, wild dogs) occurs, there might be a build up of vehicles around the sighting, which is definitely off-putting. The safari experience is different compared to Botswana’s private game reserves, where off-road game drives are allowed and therefore, if the animal(s) you are following head into the bush your ranger can follow them and hopefully get a close-up view. In the private game reserves, there is also a limit on the number of vehicles that is allowed around a sighting, offering much better photo opportunities.

At Belmond Savute Elephant Lodge guests don’t need to go looking for nature. Nature comes to them. Leopards, lions and other creatures have been found within the lodge, and when evening falls guests must always be accompanied by a guide when moving from their tented room to the public areas to make sure they remain calm and follow safety procedures if they encounter a big cat.

Belmond Savute Elephant Lodge can only be reached by small aircraft, either from Maun (50 min flight) or from another camp in Botswana. The thought of flying in a small one-engine plane can make some travelers – including myself – nervous. That said, the flight itself is spectacular and offers lovely views of the delta, with wildlife gathering or galloping below. Belmond Safaris uses Mack Air a third party for the flights between its lodges. Since its launch in 1994, Mack Air hasgrown to become one of the most advanced air charter companies in Southern Africa. The current fleet of Mack Air is quite modern and consists of 19 Cessna Grand Caravan EXs and 3 Cessna 206 Stationairs.

Malaria is common in the northern parts of Botswana such as the Okavango Delta and Chobe National Park (where Belmond Savute Elephant Lodge is located), particularly during or after rainy season from November to April. Medications can be used to prevent the chances of contracting malaria. For advice on the use of any malaria prophylaxis, you need to contact the health authorities or your local travel clinic prior to your travels. In addition to any prophylactics, the following mitigation measures are recommended: cover your arms, legs and feet in the evenings and apply a mosquito repellent containing DEET.

MY VERDICT

Location: 9/10
Design: 8/10
Pool: 9/10
Rooms: 7/10
Food: 7/10
Breakfast: 7/10
Spa: 8/10 (only in-room treatments)
Service: 9/10
Wow factor: 7/10
Value for money: 7/10
Overall experience: good 7.8/10

TIPS FOR FUTURE GUESTS & SAVE MONEY

Save money: get complimentary VIP perks when booking Belmond Safaris via Virtuoso:
- Room upgrade
- Daily breakfast
- Early check-in
- Late check-out
- A private dining experience for up to two guests once during stay, served on the balcony of your room or at a private location within the lodge
- Stays of 6+ nights will also receive a wellness credit for 2 guests, once during their stay, applicable towards a 60-minute treatment).

Save money: get complimentary VIP perks when booking Belmond Safaris via Belmond Bellini Club:
- VIP welcome treats with a local taste
- Buffet or full breakfast for 2 daily
- Complimentary upgrade based on availability at time of check-in
- Up to $200 USD hotel credit per stay ($200 per stay for select suites; $90 per stay for rooms)
- Complimentary WI-FI access

Save money: read here my tips for getting the best deal at a luxury hotel of the Belmond Hotel Group (and/or receive many free perks).

Read my tips for preparing your trip in time.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

The best time to visit Botswana’s Chobe National Park is during the dry season from June to September, when wildlife in the game reserve is abundantly present.

HOW TO GET THERE

Savute Elephant Lodge, a Belmond Safari can only be accessed by light aircraft into the nearby airstrip, which has daily flight connections with other camps in Okavango, Chobe, Maun Airport (which is the main tourist getaway to Botswana) and north to Kasane (for connections to Livingstone and Victoria Falls). Flight tim from Maun to the lodge is 50 minutes and Belmond takes care of booking all transfers and flight.

PHOTOS

Below is a selection of my photos of Savute Elephant Lodge, a Belmond Safari. To view more photos (including meals and safari activities), click here.